A local's guide
Riyadh, from someone who lives here.
The honest version. Where to go, what to eat, how to move around the city, and where to stay, written by someone who actually lives in Riyadh, not scraped from a hundred reviews.
Where do you want to start?
Places to visit
History, modern towers, and the desert on the edge of town. These are the ones I send friends to first.
Where to eat
Najdi classics, casual local spots, and a few worth dressing up for.
Where to stay
Pick your neighborhood first, then the hotel. Here is how they differ.
Getting around
The new Metro changed the city. Here is how to move without renting your own headache.
Itineraries
Day plans that actually flow, grouped so you are not crossing the city twice.
Places worth your time
See all ›
Diriyah and At-Turaif
The mud-brick old town where the first Saudi state began, restored into a walkable historic district. Next to it, Bujairi Terrace is one of the best places in the city to eat.
Masmak Fortress
A small clay fort in the middle of the old city, tied to the 1902 capture of Riyadh. Quick to see, and it sits right next to the old market.
National Museum of Saudi Arabia
The one museum to see if you only see one. It runs from ancient Arabia through the founding of the kingdom, and it is fully indoors, which matters in summer.
Edge of the World
A cliff escarpment where the desert just drops away in front of you. It is the day trip everyone remembers, and the drive out is part of it.
Eat like a local
See all ›Najd Village
$$The easy answer when someone wants real Saudi food. Floor seating, kabsa, jareesh, and dishes most tourists never get to try.
Al Romansiah
$$A local chain that does kabsa and mandi well for very fair prices. This is where families actually eat, not just tourists.
Mama Noura
$A Riyadh institution for a late shawarma and fresh juice. Cheap, fast, open late, and always busy for a reason.
Know before you go
The few things that make a first visit to Riyadh easier.
When to visit
November to March. The weather is made for being outside then. Summers run past 40C, so a summer trip means indoor plans and late evenings.
Money
The currency is the Saudi Riyal (SAR). Cards and phone payments work almost everywhere. Keep a little cash for the old souqs.
Getting a visa
Many nationalities can get a tourist eVisa online or on arrival. Check your own country's status before you book, as the rules change.
Language
Arabic is the language, but English is widely understood in hotels, malls, and the ride apps. You will be fine.
What to wear
Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees. Visitors are not required to wear an abaya, but loose and covered is the comfortable, respectful choice.
Weekend and prayer times
The weekend is Friday and Saturday. Shops pause for a few minutes at each prayer time, so build a little slack into your plans.
The rhythm of the day
Riyadh wakes up in the evening, especially in the cool months. Do indoor things by day and save parks, old towns, and dinners for after sunset.